For most RV and marine installs, monocrystalline panels are the go-to because they deliver the highest power production/efficiency, which matters when roof space is limited. Polycrystalline can be a cheaper option with slightly lower efficiency.

Rigid (fixed) panels are commonly mounted flat or on brackets and are a durable, long-term option for RV roofs.

Flexible panels can be mounted to curved surfaces using adhesive tapes and are often chosen where weight, profile, or roof shape matters. Modern flexible monocrystalline panels can achieve efficiency close to traditional monocrystalline (around 23–25%) and can be installed without drilling for racking in some cases. For marine, flexible can suit curved decks, but rigid often wins for durability. The final choice depends on the mounting surface, shading, and how the vessel/vehicle is used.

In general:

• Series increases voltage (often ideal with MPPT controllers and can improve charging performance in lower-light conditions). Modern panels with bypass diodes/split-cell designs can reduce the impact of small shaded areas, but shading can still reduce output depending on where it falls.
• Parallel keeps the voltage similar and increases the current. It can be more tolerant of shading across one panel, but higher current can mean thicker cabling and (where strings are paralleled) may require string fusing/overcurrent protection.

Fusing note: Solar string fusing is often not required on simple single-string RV arrays, but it depends on the design. Where fusing is used, it should be selected based on the panel/string short-circuit current (Isc) and the panel’s maximum series fuse rating, and the final design must stay within the MPPT/controller input limits.

You need to match two constraints:

• Energy requirement: how much you need to charge your battery bank and run loads.
• Physical space: what actually fits on the roof/deck around hatches, vents, racks, and shading.  A practical approach is to measure your usable roof/deck area first, then select the highest-efficiency panels that fit, and size the battery/charging system around that.

Solar sizing depends on:

• Your daily energy use (Wh/day) (fridge, lights, pumps, device charging, Starlink/laptop, etc.)
• Your off-grid days target
• Typical conditions (shade, season, panel orientation)

Best starting point: list each load with watts/amps and hours/day, then size solar to reliably replace that energy. I can provide a quick sizing once you share your load list.

Battery capacity depends on:

• Your daily consumption
• How much reserve do you want for poor weather/no driving
• Battery type (LiFePO4 vs AGM) and how deeply you plan to discharge it

Many people choose extra capacity to reduce engine run time and to stay comfortable through cloudy days—but the “right” size comes from your actual loads.

LiFePO4 is popular because it’s lighter, charges faster, and typically lasts longer than lead-acid. It’s often the best value for frequent off-grid use—especially when paired with proper charging (solar MPPT + DC‑DC + correct charge settings).

Yes. Batteries must be:

• Securely mounted (crash/vibration resistant)
• Installed with appropriate ventilation/clearances as required by the battery type and location
• Integrated with correct fusing, isolation, and cable sizing, and set up with correct charge profiles (especially for lithium)

If you drive regularly, a DC‑DC charger is often the most reliable way to charge a house battery from the vehicle alternator—especially with modern vehicles/smart alternators. It also allows correct charging profiles (important for lithium) and controlled current draw.

If you use campground/shore power, a 240V AC charger is a common and worthwhile addition to keep batteries charged when parked.

Important note: We can supply/install the charger on the DC side, but any fixed 230/240V wiring or inlet/outlet changes must be handled by a registered electrician.

RV/camper solar and 12/24V DC power systems in New Zealand should be installed according to good industry practice and follow the relevant parts of applicable AS/NZS standards for wiring, protection, and equipment installation. In particular, if any work touches fixed 230/240V mains wiring, that portion must be done/verified by a registered electrician. We do not design/quote fixed mains wiring modifications.

A “safe install” means the system is designed and installed to handle real RV conditions (vibration, heat, moisture, servicing) by using:

• Correct cable sizing for the current and run length, with protected routing (grommets/conduit where needed)
• Circuit protection (fuses/breakers) sized to protect the cable, with main battery fusing close to the battery
• Isolation so the system can be safely shut down for maintenance/troubleshooting
• Secure mounting of batteries and equipment (no movement under braking/vibration) and appropriate ventilation where required
• Quality terminations (proper lugs, crimping, strain relief) and tidy, serviceable layout/labelling
• Weatherproofing for roof penetrations and external connections (correct glands, sealing, UV-rated cable where applicable)

Only if you need to run 240V appliances from the battery. If most of your needs are 12V/USB (fridge, lights, phone/laptop charging via DC/USB‑C), you may not need one.

If an inverter is supplied, we treat it as dedicated outlet/plug-in use, not fixed mains backfeed, unless an electrician is engaged for any mains integration.

Size the inverter to:

• The continuous watts of what you’ll run at the same time, and
• Any start-up/surge loads (motors, compressors, some power supplies)

We recommend sizing to real loads rather than oversizing “just in case,” because bigger inverters can increase idle draw and require heavier cabling/fusing.